The Grain Mill, April 1997

NEW YORK BREWPUB REVIEW

by Jon Woodman

Recently, Cheryl and I had the opportunity to visit an old friend of hers in New York City. While we were there, we of course wanted to visit a brewpub. Instead, we hit a gold mine.

The Highlander Brewery is in the vicinity of 3rd and 38th, and is a traditional Scottish brewpub. (Are you listening, Cameron?) The menu is replete with traditional Scottish and British dishes, as well as a few American meals for those not feeling adventurous. There is a bar and a dining area in this cozy establishment, done up with high ceilings and dark wood paneling, festooned with Scottish memorabilia. The bar serves a wide range (20-25) single malt scotches, for those who like an accompaniment to their beer.

But the beer doesn't need the help, thank you very much. They are outstanding! The beers are either served American-style from a keg, or more traditionally, from the cask with a beer engine. The patron is permitted to choose which style he prefers. Moreover, this is the first brewpub that I have ever visited that dares to sell beers at cellar temperature. How many of us have sat at a bar, our hands wrapped tightly around a glass of beer, desperate to warm our beer to the proper temperature. Not at the Highlander, where the beer comes at its ideal temperature.

Below, I have provided the brewery's description of their beers, and where possible, my tasting notes.

Highlander Bea Nevis 80/- Shilling Brown Ale

"1058 OG. A hearty Brown Ale brewed with Crystal and Caramel malts. We have chosen a combination of Challenger, Golding's and Fuggles hops to make this a real creeper. You've been warned."

First of all, you have to respect a place that is willing to tell you up front the OG of their beer, as well as the malts and hops that they used. But I digress. The brown ale is wonderfully clear (not always true in a cask-conditioned beer). The color is a deep reddish brown. It has a mild hop nose with a nice hint of malt. It is mildly flavored, but with good hop flavor, subtle but complex. Smooth overall. Rating: 8

Highlander's Special Bitter

"1048 OG. A traditional British Bitter made with Golding's and Fuggles hops. The only good reason for a Scotsman to cross the English border."

A very good reason indeed. Copper/amber in color, and very clear. Wonderfully hoppy nose with nice complexity. Well-balanced beer, the hops do not overpower the malt. Fantastic hop flavoring and bitterness. Very smooth. Rating: 9

Highlander Sledgehammer Stout

"1050 OG. A deep, creamy, full-bodied Stout. Brewed with Crystal, Caramel, Black Patent and Chocolate malts, Fuggles and Golding's hops. Don't get hammered!"

Here we have our first bit of false advertising. Stating that a 1050 stout is "full-bodied" is misleading at best. Nonetheless, this is a great beer, if a bit thin for style. Much more along the cream stout style. Sweet and creamy, and not a bit astringent. Wonderful roasty nose. Dark brown in color. A bit thin in body, but quite clean. Very smooth. Rating: 8

Highlander 60/- Shilling Dark Mild

"1038 OG. A dark smooth bodied beer, for easy drinking. Brewed with Crystal, Black Patent and Chocolate malts, Fuggles and Golding's hops. A good session beer - give it a try." Not tasted.

Highlander 2 Penny Golden Ale

"1030 OG. The highlander's own light beer. Golden in color, this pale ale is crisp and refreshing."

Not tasted.

Highlander 90/- Uncle Pete's Winter Ale

"1074 OG. A robust, hearty ale with a rich roasted malt flavor. A good beer to fight the winter's chill. Smooth and rich, with subtle alcohol notes. At 7.5% ABV, this beer is truly a winter warmer."

Indeed it is! This is one big beer. The nose is very malty, slightly alcoholic, and with a hint of apple. The color is dark brown and cloudy. Very malty flavor, low hop flavor and bitterness. Very full-bodied. Wonderfully smooth. Rating: 8


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